Kathmandu: what to see and whether to move there

What the city lives on and who it suits

Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal, and about 3 million people live in the Kathmandu Valley together with Lalitpur and Bhaktapur. The city sits at about 1,400 m, surrounded by the Himalayas. The economy runs on tourism and trekking, remittances from Nepalis working abroad, trade, international organisations and charitable projects. The valley holds seven World Heritage monuments - ancient squares, temples and stupas.

Who it suits: mountain and trekking lovers, staff of international organisations and foundations, people seeking spiritual practice and a very cheap life. Who it does not suit: those who need stable politics, clean air and developed infrastructure.

The political situation

In September 2025 Nepal saw mass youth protests against a social media ban and corruption; government buildings were set on fire, the prime minister resigned, and an interim government called early elections. The situation is calmer in 2026, but politics remains unstable. Check the news and your government's advice before travelling.

Districts: where newcomers settle

• Thamel - the tourist quarter with hotels and trekking gear shops, noisy.
• Lazimpat and Baluwatar - embassies, hotels and quiet streets.
• Lalitpur, also known as Patan - the neighbouring city with a historic square, chosen by many foreigners and organisation staff.
• Budhanilkantha - the north of the valley, quieter, closer to the mountains, with international schools.
• Boudhanath - the area around the great stupa, a centre of Tibetan Buddhism.

Cost of living

• A flat for a foreigner - roughly $250-600 a month; houses with gardens in Lalitpur cost more.
• Groceries and cafés - very cheap; imported goods cost noticeably more.
• Electricity - power cuts are a thing of the past, but a generator or backup power is useful.
• Water - drinking water is bought or filtered.

Practicalities: transport, climate, language, money

• Transport. Taxis, motorbikes and ride-hailing, traffic jams and poor roads. Domestic flights to Pokhara and Lukla.
• Climate. Mild: +25-30 in summer with monsoons from June to September; in winter +18-20 by day and around zero at night.
• Air. Heavy smog in the valley in winter and spring, and many use air purifiers.
• Language. Nepali; English is common in tourism and organisations.
• Money. The Nepali rupee is pegged to the Indian rupee, and cash is often needed.

Entry and legal status

• Tourist visa - issued on arrival or online for 15, 30 or 90 days; a tourist can stay up to 150 days a year.
• Work visa - through an employer or international organisation, with ministry approval.
• Study visa - for university and course students.
• Investor visa - for investment in a Nepali business, with a long procedure.
• Volunteer and organisation staff visas - through registered foundations.

Nepal has no digital nomad visa.

Work and business

• Where foreigners work - international organisations, charities, tourism, teaching.
• Your own business - foreign investment is allowed with a minimum amount and in permitted sectors; many areas are closed to foreigners.
• Remote work - formally not allowed on a tourist visa; long periods of remote work are better arranged through another basis.

Family: schools and healthcare

• Schools - several international schools in Lalitpur and the north of the valley.
• Healthcare - a few private hospitals of decent standard; complex treatment means India, Thailand or Singapore.
• Insurance - with evacuation is essential for trekking and living in the country.

Mountains and weekends

• Pokhara - a lake city at the foot of the Annapurnas, half an hour by plane or seven hours by road.
• Trekking - routes to Everest Base Camp and around the Annapurnas, with seasons in spring and autumn.
• Chitwan National Park - rhinos and elephants on the southern plains.
• Ancient cities of the valley - Bhaktapur and Patan half an hour from the centre.

Safety and everyday details

• Street crime is low; the main risks are roads, air pollution and food poisoning.
• Earthquakes: since 2015 buildings are being reinforced, so choose ones with a verified structure.
• Strikes and protests can close roads and are announced in advance.
• The altitude is modest, but trekking requires acclimatisation.

First steps after arrival

1. Visa on arrival - fill in the form at the airport and pay the fee; applying online in advance is easier.
2. Extension - at the immigration department in Kathmandu or Pokhara, up to 150 days a year for tourists.
3. SIM card - with a passport and photo; mobile internet is cheap.
4. Money - ATMs are available in the city but with limits; take cash to the mountains.
5. Housing - a guesthouse for the first weeks, then a flat through contacts or local agents.

Is it worth living here

Kathmandu is a very affordable city by the Himalayas with an ancient culture and a strong community of international organisations. The downsides are smog, poor roads, unstable politics and complicated legal status. Moving makes sense for organisation staff and for a trekking season. For long-term remote work, countries with a nomad visa are more convenient.