🇱🇧 Lebanon
Beirut: what to see and whether to move there
Beirut is a battered but fiercely alive Mediterranean city, where the Raouché rocks plunge into the sea and by night the streets of Mar Mikhael and Gemmayze hum with bars, galleries and some of the region's best mezze.
Pigeon Rocks (Raouché)
Two natural rock arches rising straight out of the sea at the city's western tip, Beirut's defining landmark.
Beirut Corniche
The seaside promenade where the whole city gathers at sunset among joggers, fishermen and cart coffee vendors.
National Museum of Beirut
The country's leading archaeology museum, with Phoenician sarcophagi and mosaics that survived the civil war hidden in its basement vault.
Sursock Museum
A modern art museum housed in a restored 19th-century mansion in the Achrafieh district.
Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque
A blue four-minaret mosque in the city centre, standing beside Roman bath ruins and a Maronite cathedral.
Beirut Souks
A rebuilt downtown shopping quarter of boutiques and street cafés on the site of the old market.
Gemmayze & Mar Mikhael
Neighbouring bohemian districts packed with bars, street art and some of the best nightlife in the Middle East.
Le Chef
A legendary Gemmayze diner serving home-style Lebanese food since 1967.
Tawlet
A farm-to-table Lebanese restaurant where a different home cook from a different region takes over the kitchen each day.
Café Younes
The city's oldest coffee roastery, roasting since 1935, an institution for a morning espresso.
What the city lives on and who it suits
Beirut is the capital of Lebanon on the Mediterranean, a city of about 2 million including suburbs. It was once called the Paris of the Middle East: banks, universities, medicine, restaurants and nightlife. Since 2019 the country has been in a severe economic crisis, the 2020 port explosion destroyed part of the city, and in 2024 and 2026 fighting between Israel and Hezbollah included strikes on Beirut.
The city suits people with family here, work in international organisations or business tied to Lebanon. Moving for a calm life is currently risky.
The situation in 2026
From early March 2026 the situation deteriorated sharply: after Hezbollah fire, Israel carried out large-scale strikes on the south, the Bekaa valley and Beirut. A cessation of hostilities was announced in June 2026, but strikes continue, especially in the south. Keep away from Beirut's southern suburbs. Ask an expert about the situation on your travel dates.
Neighbourhoods: where newcomers settle
- Achrafieh: a Christian quarter on a hill with old mansions, cafés and galleries.
- Hamra: the area by the American University, students, bookshops, bars.
- Mar Mikhael and Gemmayzeh: nightlife and restaurants, badly damaged by the port explosion and rebuilt.
- The centre and seafront: expensive new buildings by the sea.
Cost of living
| Item, per month | US dollars, approx. |
|---|---|
| One-bedroom flat in Achrafieh or Hamra | 500-900 |
| One-bedroom flat in central Achrafieh | 570-700 |
| Three-room flat | from 1,200 |
The economy has effectively dollarised: rent, services and many purchases are priced in cash dollars. The official rate is 89,500 Lebanese pounds per dollar.
Practicalities: money, electricity, climate
Money. After the crisis banks restricted withdrawals, so residents keep money outside Lebanese banks and pay in cash dollars. Electricity. State power runs a few hours a day, and homes are connected to neighbourhood generators for a separate fee. Climate. Mediterranean: hot humid summers and mild rainy winters, with ski resorts in the mountains an hour away.
Moving and legal status
- Russian citizens get a free one-month visa on arrival at Beirut airport, extendable by 2 more months;
- work requires a permit through an employer and a residence permit;
- those who do not work can obtain a 3-year permit against a cash guarantee of about $51,000 (4.5 billion pounds) or a 6-month permit on a Lebanese bank statement with a balance from $17,000 (1.5 billion pounds); there is no separate category for property owners.
If you are considering Lebanon because of family, we will prepare documents and a backup residence option in neighbouring countries.
Healthcare, schools and trips
Beirut's private hospitals, including the American University hospital, are among the best in the region, but treatment is paid and settled in dollars. Schools teach in French, English and Arabic, many with international programmes. From Beirut people visit ancient Byblos, the Jeita Grotto and the mountains. Baalbek in the Bekaa valley is a World Heritage site, but after the 2024 and 2026 strikes trips there should be checked against the current situation.
Is the city worth considering
The pluses are the sea and mountains nearby, culture, food, an educated multilingual society and a free visa for Russian citizens. The minuses are the risk of fighting, a broken banking system, power cuts and unstable politics. For a calm move, neighbouring countries such as Cyprus or the UAE are better options for now.
FAQ
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Relocation options
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