Asmara: what to see and whether to move there

What the city lives on and who it suits

Asmara is the capital of Eritrea, a city at about 2,300 metres with, by various estimates, 500,000 to a million people. In 2017 it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list as a modernist African city: buildings of the 1930s from the Italian colonial period survive almost untouched. Coffee houses, pastry shops and palm-lined avenues make it unlike other capitals in the region.

Eritrea is one of the most closed countries in the world: since 1993 it has been ruled by one party, no elections are held, indefinite national service applies, and there are no independent media. The economy is cash-based, internet is slow and available to few, and foreigners need permits to travel outside Asmara.

It suits diplomats, staff of UN agencies and the few mining companies, and architecture researchers on a short trip. It does not suit anyone wanting to move, work remotely or do business.

Where foreigners live

The few foreigners live in the centre near Harnet Avenue and in Italian-era villa districts, or in hotels on long assignments. Leases and all contracts are usually arranged by the host organisation; renting directly as a foreigner is difficult.

Cost of living

The local currency, the nakfa, is officially pegged to the dollar; currency is exchanged only officially and receipts are kept. Cards and ATMs practically do not work for foreigners, so money for the whole stay is brought in cash.

Practicalities: climate, connectivity, rules

• Climate. Highland: cool and dry most of the year, about +20-25 by day, cool nights, summer rains.
• Altitude. The first days at 2,300 metres can bring breathlessness and fatigue, which should be factored into work plans.
• Connectivity. Internet is available mainly in hotels and internet cafés; mobile internet is practically unavailable to visitors.
• Rules. Photographing military and government sites is prohibited, and permits are needed to leave Asmara.
• Safety. Street crime is low, and walking around the city is calm even in the evening.

Healthcare

Healthcare is very limited, so bring your own medicines, including basic remedies for colds and stomach upsets. Serious illness requires evacuation to neighbouring countries or Europe, so insurance with evacuation is mandatory. Malaria risk is low in the highlands but higher in the coastal lowlands.

Who comes to work

Asmara hosts a few embassies, UN agencies and mining companies developing copper, zinc, gold and potash deposits. All contracts go through state structures, and foreign specialists work under strict rules. Independent organisations and private business are barely present, and assignments are usually short and agreed with the authorities in advance.

First steps after arrival

• register through the host organisation and keep copies of all permits;
• exchange money only officially and keep receipts until departure;
• find out where internet is available at your hotel or office and arrange contact with family;
• obtain permits for trips outside Asmara in advance;
• bring a supply of medicines for the whole assignment.

What to see if you are already in the city

The main sight is the city itself: the aeroplane-shaped Fiat Tagliero filling station, Cinema Impero, the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, the Great Mosque and Harnet Avenue with its cafés. At the Medeber market craftsmen recycle metal and tyres into utensils and tools right on the street. With a permit you can visit the Red Sea port of Massawa, a winding drive of several hours.

Moving and legal status

Moving to Eritrea independently is impossible: there are no residence programmes for investors, remote workers or retirees, and visas are issued mainly by invitation. For life in the region under clear rules, people usually consider the UAE or Egypt.

Is the city worth considering for living

No. Asmara is interesting for its architecture on a short trip by invitation, but the country's closed nature, restrictions on communication and movement, and lack of legalisation routes rule out moving. We help choose a country to live in the region and support the move; we fix our fee after a free consultation.