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🇮🇶 Iraq

Baghdad: what to see and whether to move there

Baghdad, seat of the Caliph Harun al-Rashid on the banks of the Tigris, comes alive every Friday with a book fair on Al-Mutanabbi Street, holding onto centuries of poetry through decades of upheaval.

01
Sight

Al-Mutanabbi Street

Baghdad's legendary book street, named for the great Arab poet, hosting an open-air book market every Friday.

02
Museum

Iraq Museum (National Museum of Iraq)

One of the world's most important archaeology museums, home to treasures of Sumer, Akkad and Babylon.

03
Park

Al-Zawraa Park

The city's largest green park, with a zoo and tree-lined paths, Baghdad's favourite family outing.

04
Sight

Qishla (Al-Qishla Square)

An Ottoman-era square with a historic clock tower on the Tigris riverfront, popular for evening walks.

05
District

Abu Nawas Street

A riverside boulevard along the Tigris named for the poet, famous for its open-fire masgouf fish grills.

06
Sight

Al-Kadhimiya Shrine

A gold-domed Shia shrine holding the tombs of Imams Musa al-Kadhim and Muhammad al-Taqi, a major pilgrimage site.

07
Park

Baghdad Zoo

Iraq's oldest and largest zoo, rebuilt after 2003, set within Al-Zawraa Park.

08
Café

Shabandar Café

A historic 1917 teahouse on Al-Mutanabbi Street that has drawn Baghdad's writers and intellectuals for generations.

09
District

Al Rasheed Street

The city's oldest modern street, lined with early 20th-century colonial-era arcades.

10
Restaurant

Masgouf grills of Abu Nawas

A strip of riverside restaurants grilling masgouf over open fires, Iraq's signature river-fish dish.

The city in 2026: what to know first

Baghdad is the capital of Iraq on the Tigris, with about 8 million people in the metropolitan area. It is the centre of the country's government, oil industry, banking and trade, a city with a thousand-year history, markets, the Al-Mutanabbi book street and riverside promenades. After decades of war the city has visibly recovered, but the situation remains unstable.

The US rates Iraq at its highest level, four, with a do-not-travel recommendation, and in March 2026 ordered non-emergency US government employees to leave the country. The reasons are terrorism, kidnapping, armed clashes and a limited ability to help foreigners in an emergency. This guide is for those travelling for work.

Who goes to Baghdad

  • Specialists of oil and gas, energy and construction companies.
  • Staff of embassies, the UN and international organisations.
  • Entrepreneurs trading with Iraq: the country imports most consumer goods, electronics and equipment.
  • Pilgrims visiting the shrines of Kadhimiya, Karbala and Najaf.

Baghdad is not suitable for moving a family, remote work or living on passive income. Foreigners who need Iraq for business often live in Erbil in Kurdistan: it is calmer and has international schools, restaurants and direct flights to Europe and the Gulf.

Districts

  • The International Zone - government, parliament and embassies under heavy security, entry by pass.
  • Mansour - an affluent western district with restaurants, malls and offices.
  • Karrada - a central shopping district in a bend of the Tigris with shops, cafés and hotels.
  • Jadriya - a university district by the river with villas and diplomatic residences.
  • Adhamiya and Kadhimiya - historic districts on opposite banks of the Tigris with famous mosques, crowded on holidays.

History and sights

Baghdad was founded in 762 as the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate and for centuries was one of the world's largest centres of science and culture. The National Museum of Iraq holds one of the finest collections of ancient Mesopotamia; it was looted in 2003 and, after thousands of objects were returned, reopened to visitors in 2015. On Fridays a book market runs on Al-Mutanabbi Street, and in the evenings the Abu Nuwas embankments fill with families and restaurants serving fish grilled over an open fire.

Safety

  • Travel with a trusted driver or security and agree routes with your employer's security team.
  • Live in a guarded compound, a hotel with security or the International Zone, where embassies and government institutions are located.
  • Avoid demonstrations and crowded places, especially on religious holidays.
  • Register with your country's consulate and follow its alerts.

Entry

Citizens of Russia and about 35 other countries apply for an electronic visa on the official portal before travel, with approval usually taking a few days. Kurdistan issues its own entry permits on arrival at Erbil and Sulaymaniyah airports for many nationalities, but travelling from there to Baghdad requires a federal Iraqi visa. Ask an expert about the entry rules for your passport.

Money and prices

The currency is the Iraqi dinar, with an official rate of about 1,310 dinars to the dollar. US dollars are widely used for large payments, the economy is mostly cash-based, and cards are accepted in large hotels and malls. Local food and transport are cheap, while housing for foreigners with security, a generator and water filtration is expensive and usually paid by the employer.

Climate and daily life

  • Heat. Summers are among the hottest of any capital: in July and August daytime temperatures often reach 45-50 degrees, so air conditioning and backup power are essential.
  • Electricity. Grid outages are common, and homes and hotels run on generators.
  • Water. Drink only bottled or filtered water.
  • Language. Arabic; English is spoken in business and hotels.
  • Customs. The country is Muslim, the city's rhythm changes during Muharram and Ramadan, and modest dress is required.

Work and business

Iraq is one of the world's largest oil producers, and most foreign contracts relate to oil, gas, power generation, construction and equipment supply. A foreign company registers a branch or a joint venture with a local partner, and staff need work visas and residence permits. Many companies keep an office in Erbil or Dubai and send specialists to Baghdad on short assignments.

Healthcare and connectivity

Healthcare is limited: there are private clinics, but for serious problems foreigners are evacuated to Erbil, Amman, Dubai or Istanbul, so insurance with evacuation that covers travel to countries at the highest danger level is needed. Mobile service and internet work through local operators, but the authorities periodically restrict the internet, for example during school exams.

Is Baghdad worth considering for life

No, if the goal is moving for quality of life: a high level of danger, heat, power cuts and limited healthcare. Yes, if you have a contract with an employer that provides security, housing and evacuation. For business in the region a base in the UAE or Erbil is more convenient. Write in the chat and we will find a country for living and doing business in the region.

FAQ

Is it safe to travel to Baghdad?
No. The US rates Iraq at its highest level with a do-not-travel recommendation because of terrorism, kidnapping and armed clashes.
Do you need a visa for Iraq?
It depends on your passport. Russian citizens need an electronic visa, applied for on the official portal before travel. Kurdistan issues its own entry permits, but travelling to Baghdad requires a federal Iraqi visa.
What currency is used in Iraq?
The Iraqi dinar, with an official rate of about 1,310 dinars to the dollar. US dollars are widely used for large payments.
How hot is Baghdad in summer?
In July and August daytime temperatures often reach 45-50 degrees, so air conditioning and backup power are essential.
Where do foreigners working with Iraq live?
Many live in Erbil in Kurdistan or in Dubai and travel to Baghdad on business trips.
How do you get to Baghdad?
By air to Baghdad International Airport with a connection in Istanbul, Dubai, Doha or Amman. You should be met at the airport by an employer or hotel driver.
What is there to see in Baghdad?
The National Museum of Iraq with its ancient Mesopotamian collection, Al-Mutanabbi book street, the Abu Nuwas embankments and the Al-Kadhimiya mosque. Travel only with a trusted driver on agreed routes.
What language is spoken in Baghdad?
Arabic. English is spoken in business, international organisations and large hotels, and Kurdish is common in the north of the country.
When is the best time to visit Baghdad?
November through March. Summer regularly pushes past 45C and daytime sightseeing becomes impossible. Spring brings dust storms, and evenings on Abu Nawas Street only work in the cooler months.
How many days do you need in Baghdad?
Two or three days cover the Iraq Museum, Al-Mutanabbi Street, Qishla and the Tigris waterfront. Most travellers pair the capital with Samarra, Babylon, Karbala or Najaf. Iraqi Kurdistan is a separate trip with its own entry rules.
Can foreigners live in Iraq?
Iraq is rarely a relocation destination - security, bureaucracy and infrastructure all work against it. Foreigners are usually there on work permits with oil, construction or international organisations, and Kurdistan runs its own visa regime. The rules shift often, so verify everything before you travel.

Relocation options

Running projects in Iraq and need an account for payments?

We pick a country for the company and a bank willing to handle Iraq-related payments, then open the business account. The catalogue covers business accounts in every country.

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