🇮🇶 Iraq
Baghdad: what to see and whether to move there
Baghdad, seat of the Caliph Harun al-Rashid on the banks of the Tigris, comes alive every Friday with a book fair on Al-Mutanabbi Street, holding onto centuries of poetry through decades of upheaval.
Al-Mutanabbi Street
Baghdad's legendary book street, named for the great Arab poet, hosting an open-air book market every Friday.
Iraq Museum (National Museum of Iraq)
One of the world's most important archaeology museums, home to treasures of Sumer, Akkad and Babylon.
Al-Zawraa Park
The city's largest green park, with a zoo and tree-lined paths, Baghdad's favourite family outing.
Qishla (Al-Qishla Square)
An Ottoman-era square with a historic clock tower on the Tigris riverfront, popular for evening walks.
Abu Nawas Street
A riverside boulevard along the Tigris named for the poet, famous for its open-fire masgouf fish grills.
Al-Kadhimiya Shrine
A gold-domed Shia shrine holding the tombs of Imams Musa al-Kadhim and Muhammad al-Taqi, a major pilgrimage site.
Baghdad Zoo
Iraq's oldest and largest zoo, rebuilt after 2003, set within Al-Zawraa Park.
Shabandar Café
A historic 1917 teahouse on Al-Mutanabbi Street that has drawn Baghdad's writers and intellectuals for generations.
Al Rasheed Street
The city's oldest modern street, lined with early 20th-century colonial-era arcades.
Masgouf grills of Abu Nawas
A strip of riverside restaurants grilling masgouf over open fires, Iraq's signature river-fish dish.
The city in 2026: what to know first
Baghdad is the capital of Iraq on the Tigris, with about 8 million people in the metropolitan area. It is the centre of the country's government, oil industry, banking and trade, a city with a thousand-year history, markets, the Al-Mutanabbi book street and riverside promenades. After decades of war the city has visibly recovered, but the situation remains unstable.
The US rates Iraq at its highest level, four, with a do-not-travel recommendation, and in March 2026 ordered non-emergency US government employees to leave the country. The reasons are terrorism, kidnapping, armed clashes and a limited ability to help foreigners in an emergency. This guide is for those travelling for work.
Who goes to Baghdad
- Specialists of oil and gas, energy and construction companies.
- Staff of embassies, the UN and international organisations.
- Entrepreneurs trading with Iraq: the country imports most consumer goods, electronics and equipment.
- Pilgrims visiting the shrines of Kadhimiya, Karbala and Najaf.
Baghdad is not suitable for moving a family, remote work or living on passive income. Foreigners who need Iraq for business often live in Erbil in Kurdistan: it is calmer and has international schools, restaurants and direct flights to Europe and the Gulf.
Districts
- The International Zone - government, parliament and embassies under heavy security, entry by pass.
- Mansour - an affluent western district with restaurants, malls and offices.
- Karrada - a central shopping district in a bend of the Tigris with shops, cafés and hotels.
- Jadriya - a university district by the river with villas and diplomatic residences.
- Adhamiya and Kadhimiya - historic districts on opposite banks of the Tigris with famous mosques, crowded on holidays.
History and sights
Baghdad was founded in 762 as the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate and for centuries was one of the world's largest centres of science and culture. The National Museum of Iraq holds one of the finest collections of ancient Mesopotamia; it was looted in 2003 and, after thousands of objects were returned, reopened to visitors in 2015. On Fridays a book market runs on Al-Mutanabbi Street, and in the evenings the Abu Nuwas embankments fill with families and restaurants serving fish grilled over an open fire.
Safety
- Travel with a trusted driver or security and agree routes with your employer's security team.
- Live in a guarded compound, a hotel with security or the International Zone, where embassies and government institutions are located.
- Avoid demonstrations and crowded places, especially on religious holidays.
- Register with your country's consulate and follow its alerts.
Entry
Citizens of Russia and about 35 other countries apply for an electronic visa on the official portal before travel, with approval usually taking a few days. Kurdistan issues its own entry permits on arrival at Erbil and Sulaymaniyah airports for many nationalities, but travelling from there to Baghdad requires a federal Iraqi visa. Ask an expert about the entry rules for your passport.
Money and prices
The currency is the Iraqi dinar, with an official rate of about 1,310 dinars to the dollar. US dollars are widely used for large payments, the economy is mostly cash-based, and cards are accepted in large hotels and malls. Local food and transport are cheap, while housing for foreigners with security, a generator and water filtration is expensive and usually paid by the employer.
Climate and daily life
- Heat. Summers are among the hottest of any capital: in July and August daytime temperatures often reach 45-50 degrees, so air conditioning and backup power are essential.
- Electricity. Grid outages are common, and homes and hotels run on generators.
- Water. Drink only bottled or filtered water.
- Language. Arabic; English is spoken in business and hotels.
- Customs. The country is Muslim, the city's rhythm changes during Muharram and Ramadan, and modest dress is required.
Work and business
Iraq is one of the world's largest oil producers, and most foreign contracts relate to oil, gas, power generation, construction and equipment supply. A foreign company registers a branch or a joint venture with a local partner, and staff need work visas and residence permits. Many companies keep an office in Erbil or Dubai and send specialists to Baghdad on short assignments.
Healthcare and connectivity
Healthcare is limited: there are private clinics, but for serious problems foreigners are evacuated to Erbil, Amman, Dubai or Istanbul, so insurance with evacuation that covers travel to countries at the highest danger level is needed. Mobile service and internet work through local operators, but the authorities periodically restrict the internet, for example during school exams.
Is Baghdad worth considering for life
No, if the goal is moving for quality of life: a high level of danger, heat, power cuts and limited healthcare. Yes, if you have a contract with an employer that provides security, housing and evacuation. For business in the region a base in the UAE or Erbil is more convenient. Write in the chat and we will find a country for living and doing business in the region.
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Relocation options
Running projects in Iraq and need an account for payments?
We pick a country for the company and a bank willing to handle Iraq-related payments, then open the business account. The catalogue covers business accounts in every country.