Lilongwe: what to see and whether to move there

What the city lives on and who it suits

Lilongwe is the capital of Malawi, with about 1.3 million people and growing fast. It became the capital in 1975, when the government moved from Zomba, and it was built to a plan: districts here have numbers rather than names. The economy rests on government, trade, agriculture, above all tobacco, and international organisations: Malawi hosts many development programmes and humanitarian projects.

Lilongwe draws staff of international organisations, embassies and charities, specialists on agricultural and infrastructure projects, and travellers on their way to Lake Malawi. For moving a family for quality of life or for business, the city is a weak fit.

The city and its people

Malawi is called the warm heart of Africa for the friendliness of its people, and Lilongwe is a calm and welcoming city in that sense. It is very spread out, with fields, groves and rivers between districts and long walking distances, so expatriate life depends on a car. Social life centres on the Old Town markets, cafés in shopping centres, and the clubs and sports grounds of the international community.

Districts

• Old Town - markets, shops, the bus station and cafés, busy by day.
• City Centre and Capital Hill - ministries, banks, embassies and offices of international organisations.
• Areas 10, 12 and 43 - green residential areas with walled houses, where most foreigners live.
• New outlying areas - developing fast, cheaper, but with poor roads and no security.

Money and prices

The currency is the Malawian kwacha. In November 2023 the central bank devalued it by 44%, after which petrol and diesel prices rose by more than 40%. Since then the country has periodically run short of foreign currency and fuel, with queues at filling stations. Local market produce is cheap, imported goods and fuel are expensive, and renting a house for foreigners with security and a generator costs noticeably more than the country's living standards suggest; it is often paid by the employer.

Practicalities

• Entry. In 2024 Malawi waived visas for citizens of 79 countries, but in 2026 requirements were reinstated for some of them, so for the rules for your passport ask an expert before travelling.
• Airport. Kamuzu International Airport is about 25 kilometres from the city, with flights via Johannesburg, Addis Ababa, Nairobi and Dubai.
• Health. Malaria risk all year, limited healthcare, and evacuation to South Africa for serious problems, so suitable insurance is needed.
• Electricity. Outages are common, so a generator or solar panels with batteries are needed.
• Language. The official languages are English and Chichewa; English is spoken in government and business.

Safety

Malawi is considered one of the most peaceful countries in the region, but Lilongwe sees theft and robbery, especially at night. Foreigners live in guarded houses, drive after dark and do not carry large amounts of cash.

Nature and trips

The main reason to come to Malawi is Lake Malawi, one of Africa's largest, with sandy beaches and hundreds of fish species. The nearest shore is at Salima, about an hour and a half to two hours by car. Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park offer elephants and hippos, while the Zomba Plateau and Mount Mulanje are for hiking.

Work and legal status

Foreigners work on a work permit arranged by the employer and a residence permit. Most come on contracts with an international organisation or foundation, which handles documents, housing and security. Business requires company registration and a work permit for its manager, as well as readiness for foreign currency shortages when paying suppliers.

Is Lilongwe worth considering for life

Pros: a peaceful country, friendly people, English, and Lake Malawi and nature nearby. Cons: a weak economy, shortages of foreign currency and fuel, power cuts, malaria and limited healthcare. Lilongwe suits contract work on international projects rather than moving for quality of life. Write in the chat and we will choose a country to move to in Africa, such as Mauritius or Namibia.